Irrigation Phoenix Tips and Tricks

• Use 5 to 6 wraps of PTFE tape on threaded fittings. This will allow parts to be assembled hand tight and not leak. It also allows for heads to be rotated to adjust them.
• Poly pipe should be used in areas where the ground freezes more than a few inches deep. If you install PVC pipe in an area where the ground freezes it may be broken by frost heaves even if the system is dry.
• If you live in an area where the temperature gets below freezing you will want to have your system blown out in the fall. Put a tee in the supply pipe where it exits the house, before the Pressure Vacuum Breaker (PVB) and screw a cap on the extra leg. This will provide an easy place to attach an air line.
• Don’t blow out a system at more than 40 PSI or for more than two minutes if the system has rotors (heads that turn). The gear drives are lubricated by the water and if run dry will be damaged.
• MultiStream rotors are the most sensitive to dirty water. City water is typically fine. If you have dirty water, the 570 series is the most forgiving. To check your water, fill a clean, white, five gallon bucket and look for sand or debris. If you see any contamination do not use the MultiStream head.
• Use bigger pipe. The smaller the pipe, the faster the water flows. The faster the water flows the more friction it has with the pipe. More friction means you lose more pressure. Larger pipe results in water flowing slower through the pipe and less friction. Larger pipe results in less pressure lost.
• Funny pipe is typically run for 2-3 feet between the head and the pipe. The closer you are to the valve, the farther you can go. First head on the zone may be able to use 5-6 feet of funny pipe with out a problem.
• Use PVC tubing cutters, not a hack saw. Tubing cutters are like a rose bush pruner with a ratcheting handle. They give an extremely clean cut on 1″-1 1/4″ PVC pipe. They also work well on Funny Pipe.
• Put in more heads than you think you need. They are inexpensive and easy to remove if you decide you don’t want one.
• When using in ground valves use a big valve box. This will make installation easier and will help if you ever have to service a valve. Don’t limit yourself to the standard valve boxes. A wood box made with 2×8 lumber and a wood or plywood lid works well. Rake wood chips or gravel over it to hide it. Two foot by three foot is a nice size for four to six valves.
• Heads should be place so each area of the lawn is watered by at least two heads. This is called head-to-head coverage. This means if the head has a radius of 15′, the next head should be no more than 15′ away. A little closer is better to allow for adjustments. You can reduce the throw distance by up to 25% on all of our heads.
• When doing a flow test to determine the capacity of your water supply be aware of changes in the neighborhood that are planned. If you are the first house in a new development you may find the pressure and flow drop in the coming years as more homes are built. Call your local municipality to find out what they plan the pressure and flow to be once development is complete.
• Static pressure does not help design a system. What you need to know is the gallons per minute at 35-40 PSI. Use a Flow & Pressure Gauge and a bucket. Put the gauge on one outside faucet and open the faucet. Now go to another outside faucet and open it till the gauge reads a steady 35-40 PSI with the water flowing. Measure how many gallons per minute you are getting using a five gallon bucket. If you have 1/2 inch pipe going to the faucet you will probably get an unrealistically low reading. You may want to install your PVB and a 3/4 inch faucet on it to get a more realistic reading. One inch pipe is pretty standard for plumbing in the PVB for up to 15 gallons per minute.
• When opening the PVB, open the inlet valve as fast as you can. This will result in the internal float sealing the vent. Opening it slowly may result in the float not sealing the vent and lots of water purging from the vent area around the top of the PVB. Some water leakage is normal when opening the valve but it normally stops in a few seconds.
• Water large areas with SingleStream rotors, small or irregular areas with 570 Series. Use MultiStreams on slopes, windy areas, and because you like the look.
• If using poly pipe (the black stuff in a coil) consider having an irrigation company install the pipe. They use a vibratory plow to pull the pipe through the yard and do a lot less damage to the lawn than a trencher. The price is usually reasonable.
• When installing Funny Pipe it is easiest if the pipe is warm. Leave it in the sun on the driveway or have a bucket of hot water to put the ends in to make it easier to attach the fittings.
• Leave room for more valves. You may want to add irrigation to a garden or a drip system and it’s a lot easier to allow for it now.
• Call before you dig. You may think you know where buried utilities are but its not worth the risk of injury, or cost of repair if you are wrong.
• Bury your pipes 8-10 inches deep. This should put them below the sprinkler body and out of reach for lawn aeration.
• Buy a couple of spare heads. Sooner or later one will be damaged and need to be replaced. It’s nice to have them on hand.
• When replacing a head follow these steps. Dig out a donut of sod about 18 inches in diameter. Dig out the dirt around the head. Remove the old head. Install the body only for the new head. Keep the cap, spring, riser etc off to the side. Turn on the zone for a few seconds to flush the system. Install all the parts for the new head. Put the dirt back in the hole.
• Leave extra wire at you timer and in the valve box. This will make servicing and/or replacing parts easier.
• When you run the wires from the timer to the valve box, run a couple extra conductors. This will make it easier to expand the system and will give you spare wires if anything goes wrong.
• Put your timer in a convenient place. Easy access and good light make it easier to change the program. Just inside the garage door or in a carport may be convenient.
• Take some pictures when all your digging is complete and you are putting the pipes in. They will help you locate the pipes if you ever want to change something. Put the pictures in a plastic bag by the timer.
• Over 80 PSI static may result in valve problems. A plumbing supply place in your area should be able to provide a pressure regulator to bring the pressure down below 80 PSI.
• Run the irrigation system early in the morning. This is when water pressure is typically at its best. It is also best for the lawn. If you water in the evening the blades of grass will stay wet much longer and make it easier for fungus to grow. Early morning also has the least wind. Wind can easily blow a spray pattern several feet off target resulting in dry areas.
• Don’t mix different types of sprinklers on the same zone or valve. The watering times for rotors vs. fixed-spray heads are very different. You will want to have control over how long each type is watering.
• You can include more than 1 pipe in a trench. Depending on local codes, we suggest using 1 inch Schedule 40 PVC upstream of the control valves. Use at least 3/4 inch Class 200 PVC or 3/4 inch Poly Pipe downstream.
• To dig a trench under a sidewalk or driveway, take a length of PVC pipe and attach a hose to one end. Use the power of the water along with the strength of the pipe to dig your way under the concrete.

5. Establish Water-Use Zones.

In addition to dividing the landscape into use areas, a xeriscape plan further divides the landscape into three water-use zones — high (regular watering), moderate (occasional watering), and low (natural rainfall). Several of these zones may be included within an individual landscape.water used zones
High-water-use zones are small, highly visible and highly maintained are as of the landscape, such as the public area and the area around the patio where plants are watered regularly in the absence of rainfall. In the moderate-water-use zones, established plants are watered only when they show symptoms of moisture stress, such as wilting or changing color. Possible plants for this zone include azalea, dogwood, redbud, Japanese maple, and many herbaceous perennials. In the low-water-use zones, plants receive no water except natural rainfall.
For greatest water conservation, design as much of your landscape as possible into low-water-use zones. Most people are surprised to learn that the majority of North Carolina’s woody ornamental trees and shrubs, turfgrasses, some herbaceous perennials, and even some annuals, like vinca and verbena, grow well in low-water-use zones.irrigation collage
Don’t be alarmed by a slight loss of quality during extended dry periods . Some established plants literally shut down during drought and cease growing. Most turfgrasses go dormant and turn brown during drought, then bounce back with the first rain. Learning to accept this “less than perfect” appearance during dry periods is one of the most difficult parts of creating a water-conserving landscape.
One exception to the water-use zone rule is newly planted ornamental plants and turfgrasses. These plants require regular irrigation during the establishment period (8 to 10 weeks after planting), regardless of their intended water-use zones.
To maximize water savings, concentrate seasonal color beds in areas of the landscape where they can be watered and maintained. Avoid scattering a number of small color beds throughout the landscape.
Now, add another sheet of tracing paper over the base map and sketch your desired water-use zones (Figure 5). The landscape is beginning to take shape and you can visualize the form of the various beds.

6. master Plan

Once you have settled on a design scheme and a water management arrangement, give form and definition to the various spaces in your plan. With the identification of planting spaces as well as edging materials, ground covers, and paving, the master plan begins to take shape In the landscape, just as in nature, smooth, flowing curves are best; tight curves or unnecessary bends can be maintenance problems. Avoid sharp angles that are difficult to maintain and irrigate. Remember that simplicity in the design will ensure easy maintenance and water-use efficiency.

7. Choose Plants that Fit the Design.

Once you achieve the style and overall effect you want, it is time to select plants to fill the assigned spaces. It is important to choose plants that complement and accent the good features of your architecture and construction materials rather than overpower them.
Group plantings to conform to the shape of plant beds. Avoid rigid, formal geometric plantings as much as possible. Plants grouped in large beds, informal balance, and free-flowing curves are popular and practical design concepts.
Place plants to ensure easy maintenance and efficient use of water. It is important to space plants far enough apart so that they can achieve their mature size without being crowded. Crowding not only increases your costs, but also results in long-term maintenance problems and increases the potential for water stress.
Select plants that have a size and form that conform to their location without having to be sheared or pruned frequently. Choose plants with the same shape and ultimate size as the space you want to fill. For example, to plant an area in front of low windows 2 feet above the ground, select spreading, low-growing shrubs with an anticipated height of 2 to 3 feet. Ground-cover-type plants fit particularly well in areas such as this. Modern trends in landscape design allow for a mixed grouping of plants with varied seasonal interest. Pay close attention to the expected size of the plants.

Renovation of an Existing Landscape for Improved Water Conservation plus fertigation

A typical landscape can be renovated for water conservation. The pre-renovation landscape has foundation shrubs surrounding the house, a hedge along three sides, and some native trees around the rear of the property.landscape renovated
The redesign of the residence shows expansion of the shrub beds in the public and private areas of the landscape to provide seasonal interest, variety, and reduced maintenance. Shade-tolerant ground covers are used under the existing trees on the left side of the front and right rear of the property. A large area in the left rear of the property makes a natural, mulched play area. Note how the water use zones changed during the redesign of the property and how the amount of turf area was reduced.

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