Thinning out of tree limbs on larger trees can dramatically increase the life of a tree and eliminate hazard limbs. Thinning out involves complete removal of a branch back to a main stem or to another lateral branch, which helps them to heal more rapidly. With thinning out, the overall general shape of the tree is kept. It is a proven fact that keeping trees healthy with less mass when the leaves are on will keep trees from being susceptible to high winds and storm damage. Removing dead limbs from oak, elm and other tree species will help keep bugs out that can damage or kill trees.

Fun Facts About Trees

• Trees keep our air supply fresh by absorbing carbon dioxide and producing oxygen.
• In one year, an acre of trees can absorb as much carbon as is produced by a car driven up to 8,700 miles.
• Trees provide shade and shelter, reducing yearly heating and cooling costs by 2.1 billion dollars.
• Trees lower air temperature by evaporating water in their leaves.
• A tree does not reach it’s most productive stage of carbon storage for about 10 years.
• Trees cut down noise pollution by acting as sound barriers.
• Trees provide protection from downward fall of rain, sleet and hail as well as reduce storm run-off and the possibility of flooding.
• Trees provide food and shelter for wildlife.
• Trees located along streets act as a glare and reflection control.
• Trees are the longest living organisms on earth.
• The world’s tallest tree is a coast redwood in California, measuring more than 360 feet or 110 meters.
  -From the International Society of Arboriculture website.

  When a tree has been removed

all that’s left is the stump. If a professional tree service was used, they will probably have someone come by later to grind out the stump and leave a big pile of wood chips. However, this doesn’t always happen. If you were the one that removed the tree, there won’t be someone else to finish up the job. What you need is a tree stump removal strategy. You can rent a stump grinder, but they’re expensive and can be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Manual tree stump removal is cheap, but labor-intensive. Instead, another cheap alternative that is also easy is available. But be forewarned: this tree stump removal method requires some patience. Actually, there are a couple of methods depending on the amount of energy you want to expend.

Tools: chain saw, axe, mattock, shovel

Manual tree stump removal uses a hefty mattock. Its broad end allows you to dig around the stump; the other end functions as an axe for chopping your way through tree roots. Dig and chop your way under the root ball to the taproot. For large tree stump removal, taproots may be imposing enough to require cutting with a full-size axe. This method takes time and a bit of endurance. All you’re trying to do is remove the central mass of the stump and not all the main roots that spread out through the ground.

Tools: drill, large drill bit, high nitrogen fertilizer, heavy plastic (tarp), mulch.

Wood that isn’t alive will eventually rot from moisture, insect activity and natural microbes, but depending on the original wood, may take a number of years to accomplish. This alternative removal method is essentially one way to hasten the natural processes. It doesn’t work over night, but within a year, with any luck, you’ll have reduced the massive tree trunk to a soft pulp that you can just ignore, or safely remove it with the mattock and shovel.

To speed up the natural process you’ll be adding 2 ingredients in unnatural quantities that when combined will speed up the decaying process. Those ingredients are nitrogen and water.

Using a chain saw

carefully cut the stump down as close to the ground as possible. Don’t allow the saw’s chain to strike the ground (this dulls the chain very very quickly). Once the stump is leveled off, drill some holes at least 2″ deep or more, into the stump in a number of places, using your widest drill bit. The more, deeper and wider the holes are, the better.

Fill the holes with water

then comes the fertilizer which should be high in nitrogen. If using a commercial fertilizer, make sure the first number on the bag is the highest. Pour this fertilizer into the holes. Next, soak the ground evenly around the stump.

Cover the stump with a plastic tarp, either black or clear, since it will be covered over with a sheet of plastic. The tarp acts as a barrier that will help keep the area and the wood moist. Plenty of moisture is a powerful ally for tree stump removal.

Cover the plastic with an organic mulch, and dampen it thoroughly. Any organic mulch will do, such as wood chips or shredded bark. This mulch will help hold in additional moisture keeping the area even wetter. Wet mulch will keep the tarp in place. If you have a few large stones available, roll them onto the tarp.

The final step is patience. The above steps greatly speed up the natural rotting process, but it will still take some time. Then sit back and wait for completion of your tree stump removal project.

Periodically repeat the process: remove the mulch, plastic and add more nitrogen, then re-apply the plastic and mulch. Soak the mulch again, too, to keep the tarp wet and weighed down.

• Many gardeners have the impression that the more fertilizer they apply the more the plant will grow. Fertilizer is not plant food. Plants use water, carbon dioxide, elements from fertilizer, and energy from the sun to produce their own food. Synthetic and natural fertilizers provide the nutrients for plant growth, but not the actual food for growth. In other words, fertilizer doesn’t feed a tree, it makes it easier for a tree to feed itself.

  Correct fertilizer amounts promote healthy flower production and foliage growth, while excessive fertilizer decreases plant health and even leads to decline and death. Over application or incorrect fertilizer applications contribute to polluting our waterways. Excess fertilizer can even increase the incidence of some plant diseases.

  A moderate rate of growth and good, green color is best for most woody plants. Excessive vigor, which is evident by lush, green leaves and long shoot growth is often undesirable. Such trees are more susceptible to freezing injury, are more likely to break during wind/ice storms, and require more pruning than trees exhibiting moderate growth.

  Don’t fertilize to make a young tree bigger, faster. Think of it as feeding your children more food so they’ll reach a mature size faster. It just doesn’t happen that way. Overfeeding our children creates obese kids that have troubles now and in later life. The same goes for raising trees.

  Wait until spring to fertilize fall planted trees and shrubs. Wait 6 — 8 weeks to fertilize trees planted in the spring. Use slow release fertilizers in a light band along the perimeter of the planting hole.

  Newly planted trees are under stress and should receive only a light application of fertilizer. For 1 gallon container plants, apply 1 teaspoon of a nitrogen fertilizer or 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10, for larger plants apply 2 — 3 tablespoons.

  Ideally you should base fertilization rates on soil test results, plant age, current and desired growth rate, plant type, or by using a few general guidelines. The rate should also be influenced by rainfall and soil type.

  A wet growing season will normally increase the need to fertilize, especially in sandy soils. During periods of dry weather, reduce the amount of fertilizer. Fertilizer encourages water-demanding new growth and can injure roots of trees and ornamentals experiencing drought stress.

  A nitrogen application will have its greatest effect 3 — 4 weeks later. Like lawns, woody plants can absorb nutrients as long as the soil temperature is above 40°F. Root growth occurs during cool weather even when the foliage appears dormant. Root growth of woody ornamentals is most active in fall and late winter/early spring but slows during hot, summer weather.

  Fertilize trees and shrubs in the spring or fall. Spring fertilizer application should be made before new growth starts. Fall fertilization should be made approximately 1 month after the first killing frost. Many gardeners are reluctant to fertilize in late fall for fear it will stimulate new growth if a period of unseasonably warm weather occurs. However, this is unlikely if applied late in the season. Late fall fertilizer is more effective in promoting plant growth than a spring fertilization.

  Late summer fertilization (mid August) should be avoided since it actually may stimulate late growth that will not harden off before frost. Applying slow-release fertilizers around trees or shrubs should not be applied late in the season (after July 15) because they may keep the plant growing rapidly late in the summer. This late season growth may not “harden off” completely, and winter damage may occur.

  Fertilizer should be spread evenly over the entire root zone which can extend 2 — 3 times the width of the branches. Remember that some of the root zone may have already been fertilized when fertilizer was applied to the lawn or flower bed. Sprinkle the fertilizer on top of the soil or mulch, and water lightly. The fertilizer will move quickly through the mulch and there is no need to remove the mulch or trying to place the fertilizer below the mulch.

  Spread the fertilizer evenly under the branches. Don’t dump fertilizer in one spot. This can cause roots below the fertilizer to burn and die. Avoid getting fertilizer on the leaves. If fertilizer lodges in the whorls of plant foliage, use a broom to brush the fertilizer off.

  Fertilizer Holes

  Spikes

  Sprays

  Injections

  Placing fertilizer in holes around mature trees has been tested and research indicates that surface application of fertilizer is sufficient and the hole method is not necessary since most of the tree’s feeder roots are in the top 12″ of the soil.

  However, if you have compacted soil, bore holes 4″ — 6″ deep, 2′ — 3′ apart using a punch bar or drill with a 2″ auger. A good tool is a bulb planting auger sold in garden centers. Start 2′ from the trunk and continue out 2′ beyond the branches (drip line). Divide the fertilizer into as many equal parts as there are holes and place in the holes. Boring holes in soil can increase soil aeration and water penetration into the root zone.

  

  Fertilizer spikes and stakes driven into the ground contain satisfactory amounts of nutrients. Unfortunately, the spacing is such that very little fertilizer comes into contact with most of the root system. Lateral fertilizer (side-to-side) movement in the soil is very limited.

  Foliar sprays of a liquid or water soluble fertilizer on the foliage can be used for correcting deficiencies of minor elements such as iron or manganese. This method should not be used to provide all of a plant’s fertilizer needs.

  Benefits from foliar sprays are short lived. Since nutrient deficiency is often caused by a disease or improper soil condition (pH, drainage, soil compaction) foliar sprays give only temporary relief and do not correct the main problem.

  Tree injections of micronutrients is another method of fertilization that should be used only as a last resort. Trees can be permanently injured by drilling holes. Decay could develop and may out weigh any benefit the fertilizer might provide. Any benefit from the fertilizer will be temporary at best and it does not change poor soil conditions.

  See: Mauget Injections

  Do not use weed-and-feed fertilizers under trees or shrubs unless the label says it is safe. Some plants, such as dogwoods, are very sensitive to dicamba herbicide that is contained in many weed-and-feed lawn fertilizers